I´d heard that flying into Ushuaia was a spectacular way to arrive and so it was. We flew over milky blue lakes, a huge wall of jagged glaciars and the Magellan Straits. Ushuaia is the capital of the largest island of many that make up Tierra del Fuego and it has a very strange airport. It looks like the wooden frame of an enormous ski chalet without internal walls or decoration, a giant hut or garden shed in fact.
My taxi driver drove me round a few hotels - all booked up - and then dumped me outside the Tourist Office. In the pouring rain I dragged my suitcase up the steep streets of the town to find a very ordinary hotel with no guests, a very dangerous gas fire and a lumpy bed. It´s a bloody long way to come to be disappointed.
Soaking wet, having tramped around, past endless cafes with piles of sticky cakes and shops selling outdoor gear, I found consolation in a small fast food joint with a friendly owner who was squashed into a corner booth with three fat friends and lots of wine. La Barra, it´s called and I decided then and there that it would be my very own Cheers, a place where, when city streets seem lonely, everyone knows your name. Or something.
My taxi driver drove me round a few hotels - all booked up - and then dumped me outside the Tourist Office. In the pouring rain I dragged my suitcase up the steep streets of the town to find a very ordinary hotel with no guests, a very dangerous gas fire and a lumpy bed. It´s a bloody long way to come to be disappointed.
Soaking wet, having tramped around, past endless cafes with piles of sticky cakes and shops selling outdoor gear, I found consolation in a small fast food joint with a friendly owner who was squashed into a corner booth with three fat friends and lots of wine. La Barra, it´s called and I decided then and there that it would be my very own Cheers, a place where, when city streets seem lonely, everyone knows your name. Or something.
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