Tuesday, May 5, 2009

San Telmo/Portobello

San Telmo is the other ‘cool’ district of Buenos Aires.
I wasn’t keen. Firstly it was bloody miles and miles from my hotel. The other side of the hugest avenue. Also it was a bit like the twee end of Notting Hill. Lots of cobbled streets lined with extravagant antique shops, selling chandeliers and old knobs and bits of lace. Even the pretty wrought iron market was selling vintage clothes rather than vegetables on the day I went. Like Boca, its streets are crowded at the weekends. Unlike Boca it has a lot of cafes given special status by the city – historic places with horseshoe shaped bars, sit-up-and-beg tills, lots of stuff like jugs and baskets hanging from ceilings, pine interiors. I had a really disgusting meal in one of them. But it has a pretty central square with lots of shade and tango dancers busking – passing round the hat is obviously no go – haven’t you heard, mis amigos, there’s a change crisis in Argentina.

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