It’s incredibly noisy. And the air is a revolting acrid fug of smog. If you stand on one of the main thoroughfares of the city – Avenidas Santa Fe, Cordoba, Corrientes - you’d have to shout to be heard by someone standing next to you. The traffic is absolutely terrible, an entire city choked to death by engines. Mostly it’s the old buses, painted like fairground rides, which make the noise. They sound like tractors – the hissing of their brakes, the grinding of the gear changes, the roar of acceleration – I lay in bed night after night listening to the buses driving down the street. And they go on 24/7. I barely slept for three weeks.
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